Four Sustainable Wines to Try

This Thanksgiving, choose environmentally impactful wines.
Mika Bulmash Vineyard

Mika Bulmash

When it comes to drinking, the most often heard phrase is “drink responsibly.” Wine importer Mika Bulmash has a new motto, “drink sustainably.” We should embrace it as well. For the last eight years, through her company, Wine for the World, she’s been scouring the planet for the most socially responsible, environmentally impactful, artisanal producers. Her first discovery was South Africa’s Bosman Family, eighth-generation grape growers with a historic 260-year-old cellar. She later added winemakers from Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, Spain and Italy to her roster.

After tasting through the WFTW portfolio, I gave Bulmash the challenge of pairing wines for a Thanksgiving feast. We started off with two types of sparkling wine, perfect to hand to your guests upon arrival.


Her first suggestion was Brazil’s Cave Geisse Brut Nature, a stunning sparkler that has no dosage or added sugar—a category of low-calorie bubbly that’s now in vogue. “Cave Geisse is in the very south of Brazil at a high elevation, the most prominent sparkling winery in the country,” she explained. “Everything from harvesting to disgorgement is done by hand.” Her next suggestion took us to Spain, a beautiful cava, Roxanne, produced by Chozas Carrascal near Valencia. “They offer a rare organic-certified cava from a single vineyard at 2,500 feet above sea level,” she said. “The winery is situated within a nature reserve and must follow stringent protocols of sustainability.”

For the Thanksgiving meal, Bulmash proposed a white and a red. “Chenin Blanc works perfectly with turkey,” exclaimed Bulmash, after suggesting the white Optenhorst from Bosman, the oldest “bush vine” Chenin Blanc vineyard in South Africa. “Bosman’s superstar winemaker, Natasha Williams, makes exciting natural wines.”

Her red suggestion also comes a female winemaker, up-and-comer Sveva Sernia, who makes a super savory Aglianico, a variety that pairs well with turkey and stuffing. “Morasinsi in Puglia is making natural wines from indigenous varieties in spontaneous fermentations. It has wondrously biodiverse vineyards along with a huge food forest,” Bulmash noted. Now that’s sustainable!

The print version of this article appears with the headline: Drink Sustainably.