Harvest Time is the Right Time for Pairing Vegetables and Wine
86 Allen St., 212-228-7732
Vibe: A downtown gem with punk-rock soul
Veggie: Salt-roasted beets with Thai green curry and galangal coconut cream ($20). Chef Amanda Cohen marries yellow, red, and baby candy-cane beets with whipped coconut cream and a garnish of Thai basil, cilantro, and beet greens.
Vino: Clos Fantine 2013 Faugères Cuvée Tradition ($52), a blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah. “This wine has lots of complexity, with a musky, organic taste that brings out the earthiness of the beets,” Cohen says.
85 W. Broadway, 212-220-4110
Vibe: A fashionable, serene haven for inventive cooking
Veggie: Roasted whole sunchokes with hazelnuts and black trumpet mushrooms ($13). Sourced in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, “the sunchokes are cooked over a wood-fired grill, dressed in hazelnut vinaigrette, and served with roasted mushrooms and toasted hazelnuts atop a vegan sunchoke puree,” says chef Min Kong. “We garnish it with pickled sunflower petals from the farmers’ market.”
Vino: 2011 Eric Morgat Savennières, L’Enclos ($70). “Mushrooms and hazelnuts work with mineral-driven whites like this Chenin Blanc,” says beverage director Josh Nadel. “This medium-bodied Savennières from the western Loire is flinty and dry, with luscious texture and ripeness.”
Blue Hill at Stone Barns
630 Bedford Rd., pocantico hills, 914-366-9600
Vibe: Fat wallets meet farm-to-table
Veggie: 898 squash, pureed and served with burrata and spicy vegetable broth (part of a $218 tasting course). An experimental miniature squash, the 898 is more flavorful than the butternut variety. Grass-fed milk from Blue Hill Farm in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, is used to make the burrata.
Vino: Shinn Vineyards 2012 Pinot Blanc (part of the restaurant’s $148 wine pairing). Similar to an Alsace wine, this biodynamically grown Pinot Blanc from the North Fork of Long Island is honeyed and rich, with terrific acidity and a touch of sweetness that complements the squash.
25 Cooper Sq., 212-228-3344
Vibe: A raucous food lovers’ hangout
Veggie: Carrots Wellington ($24). “The carrots are roasted with cinnamon, coriander, and fennel, cooled, then wrapped in puff pastry and baked again,” says chef John Fraser. “We serve it with bluefoot mushrooms, baby leeks, pickled pearl onions, roasted sunchokes, and sunchoke puree.”
Vino: Bebame 2012, Sierra Foothills ($52). “This Cabernet Franc and Gamay blend has black pepper and savory notes that work well with the sweet-earthy pastry-wrapped carrots,” says wine director Ashley Santoro.
A version of this article appeared in the September 2015 issue of New York Cottages & Gardens with the headline: Veggies and Vino.