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At The Musket Room, a romantic hideaway in Nolita, Kiwi chef/co-owner Matt Lambert serves up inventive Down Under cuisine. For starters: A memorable short loin of New Zealand red deer with juniper meringue and celery root puree, fortified with cilantro, roasted fennel, and licorice jus. Lambert’s New Zealand–heavy wine list features such standouts as the Mahi 2012 ($62), a biodynamically grown Pinot Noir from Marlborough. “Despite its concentration of fruit and ripe tannins, it’s not overly fruity or too dry,” says master sommelier Cameron Douglas, also a native Kiwi. 265 Elizabeth St., NYC, 212-219-0764.
Though it no longer exists, the onetime New France colony called Acadia—including present-day Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and parts of Maine—left a legacy of hearty cuisine. At King Bee in Alphabet City, chef Jeremie Tomczak specializes in French-farmhouse fare inspired by the Order of Good Cheer, a gastronomic society founded in Nova Scotia in 1606. Poutine râpée, a potato dumpling traditionally stuffed with pork but made here with lamb neck and served with turnips, partridgeberry preserves, and a mirepoix puree, goes down well with Cowhorn Spiral 36 ($55), a Rhône blend from Oregon. “Southern Rhône varietals work nicely” with King Bee’s roster of rich dishes, says partner and beverage director Eben Klemm. 424 E. 9th St., NYC, 646-755-8088.
At Khe-Yo, Marc Forgione’s spare, inviting new outpost in Tribeca, sides of addictive coconut rice with spicy lime-leaf sausage are ordered at virtually every table. Chef Soulayphet Schwader—born in Laos and raised in Kansas—has fashioned a menu reminiscent of his mother’s home cooking, including caramelized whole sea bream with crispy shallots and a tamarind, peanut, and sweet ginger sauce. “The strong spices pair surprisingly well with full-bodied whites” such as Domaine Paul Blanck Pinot Gris 2012 from Alsace ($59), says beverage director and managing partner Nick Bradley. “Even a lighter Burgundy or Sancerre Rouge won’t muddy the flavors.” 157 Duane St., NYC, 212-587-1089.
A version of this article appeared in the March 2015 issue of New York Cottages & Gardens with the headline: Foreign Affairs.