The Faces Behind Your Favorite Wines
Toasting the next generation of Long Island winemakers.
Pellegrini Vineyards, Cutchogue
Next Generation: Zander Hargrave, winemaker
Provenance: Son of Louisa and Alex Hargrave, who launched Hargrave Vineyards in 1973 (Long Island’s first winery) with a planting of Vitis vinifera grapes.
Focus on the Future: “Long Island’s vintage variation challenges me,” says Hargrave, who specializes in blending (often with three Merlot clones from a single vineyard) and makes 20 labels a year. “People are starting escargot and oyster farms nearby, so it’s an exciting time to be here.
Borghese Vineyard & Winery, Cutchogue
Next Generation: Giovanni Borghese, owner
Provenance: Son of Marco and Anne Marie Borghese, who acquired Hargrave Vineyards in 1999 and renamed it Castello di Borghese.
Focus on the Future: “Our next step is to explore planting Northern Italian varietals to pay homage to our roots,” Borghese says.
Wölffer Estate Vineyard, Sagaponack
Next Generation: Joey Wölffer, co-owner
Provenance: Daughter of the late vintner Christian Wölffer, she runs the estate with brother Marc and partner/winemaker Roman Roth.
Focus on the Future: In addition to producing several popular rosés, Wölffer reports that the “winery continues
to push forward with new innovations. Christian’s Cuvée Merlot 2019 will be back this summer, and our 2017 Cool
As Well Blanc de Blancs will be released next spring for our 35th anniversary.”
Paumanok Vineyards and Palmer Vineyards, Aquebogue
Next Generation: Kareem Massoud, winemaker
Provenance: Son of Ursula and Charles Massoud, who founded Paumanok in 1983.
Focus on the Future: A specialist in Chenin Blanc and other Loire varieties, Massoud will soon be “adding Melon de Bourgogne, the Loire grape of Muscadet wine, which is ideal with Long Island oysters. And I’m making more méthode Champenoise sparkling.”
Macari Vineyards, Mattituck
Next Generation: Gabriella Macari, director
Provenance: Daughter of founders Katherine and Joseph Macari, Jr.
Focus on the Future: Macari boasts 160 acres under vine, with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc as its calling card. “Our dry, delicious, sparkling pink pét-nat Cabernet Franc, Horses, is a biggie for us, in addition to agrotourism,” she says.
RGNY, Riverhead
Next Generation: Maria Rivero-González, owner
Provenance: Rivero-González’s father, José Antonio Rivero Larrea, owns a winery in Mexico where his daughter learned the trade. She acquired Martha Clara Vineyards in 2018 and renamed it RGNY.
Focus on the Future: “Sauvignon Blanc does amazingly well for us,” says Rivero-González, adding that she also finds Viognier to be wonderfully expressive. “I like experimenting, so we are aging Sauvignon Blanc in amphorae. And I’m excited about our dry Riesling, which is floral, with chamomile on the nose.”
The print version of this article appears with the headline: A New Vintage.