What’s Trending? Four Top New York Wine Directors Let It Flow

Patrick Cappiello

Pearl & Ash, 220 Bowery, 212-837-2370

THE LIST: 2,000 selections from classic and emerging regions.
ON TREND: “Fewer mainstream choices and more of what I call hipster wines, like Jura whites, which can be esoteric, funky, and oxidized. There’s a big movement to natural, biodynamic wines. People often order by flavor profiles—whether steely and minerally, rich and opulent, or robust and earthy.”
TOP BOTTLES: Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc No. 5, a minerally, focused natural wine;  Jean-François Ganevat, an opulent biodynamic Côtes du Jura Chardonnay; and Clos Saron Pinot Noir, a funky, earthy natural wine from Gideon Beinstock, a hot young producer in Sierra Nevada.
THE SPLURGE: A Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru from Burgundy, ranging from $300 to $500.

Jeff Taylor

Betony, 41 W. 57th St., 212-465-2400

THE LIST: 800 selections, a split of Old World and New World wines.
ON TREND: “Lately people are into Rieslings from the Finger Lakes region and Grüner Veltliners from Santa Barbara. I’m seeing interest in Syrah and Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley in Australia and from the Mount Etna region of Sicily—the minerally, red Nerello variety.”
TOP BOTTLES: Biodynamic wines from Domaine Comte Abbatucci in Corsica; Tatomer “Kick-on Ranch” Riesling from western Los Alamos, California; and Pinot Noirs from the Willamette Valley in Oregon.
THE SPLURGE: Jamsheed Syrah from the Yarra Valley, vinified in whole clusters from single vineyard grapes (from $100).

Ashley Santoro

Narcissa, 25 Cooper Sq., 212-228-3344

THE LIST: 230 selections, with a third of them domestic (California, Oregon, and New York), meant to match with chef John Fraser’s California cuisine.
ON TREND: “People love the romance of wines from islands—the smoky and earthy Listán Negro red variety from Tenerife in the Canary Islands; Frappato from Sicily, a light-bodied red resembling Gamay; and citrusy Gaia and Sigalas Assyrtikos from Santorini.”
TOP BOTTLES: André Balazs Reserve Rosé, which is made by the Channing Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton; lighter-style red wines from the Rhône Valley; and Nebbiolos, Barberas, and Barbarescos from Italy.
THE SPLURGE: Mount Eden Vineyards Pinot Noir ($165), which comes from a 2,000-foot-high, low-yield vineyard in California’s Santa Cruz Mountains.

Nathan Rawlinson

All’onda, 22 E. 13th St., 212-231-2236,

THE LIST: 174 sparklings, reds, and whites from Northern Italian regions: Veneto, Alto Adige, Piedmont, and Marche, plus a few from Croatia and Slovenia.
ON TREND: “Right now, the hottest region for whites is Friuli, and for sparkling, it’s Franciacorta in Lombardy. Orange wines are still in demand. Recently trending is Prosecco in col fondo style [fermented on its lees and a little cloudy]: You tip the bottle upside down and back again to get the sediment to settle.”
TOP BOTTLES: Grand Malvasia, an orange wine from Croatia; whites by Cantina Terlano in Alto Adige; reds from Valpolicella, like the rich, high-alcohol Amarone, made from dried grapes; and Nebbiolo-based wines from the Langhe region in Piedmont.
THE SPLURGE: Kabaj Amphora ($160), a “meaty” and smoky orange wine from Slovenia that’s kept on its skin for six months.

A version of this article appeared in the September 2014 issue of New York Cottages & Gardens with the headline: The Oeno File.